One of the wonders of medieval engineering, this incredible structure completed in 1342 is considered the Jewel in the Cathedral crown. No cathedral dominates its surrounding landscape as does Ely. The ‘Ship of the Fens’ it can be seen from miles around, and no other building or topographical detail challenges it.
Ely is a remarkable building in which to study medieval construction. Begun in 1083, it was built of Northamptonshire Barnack stone, bought for 8000 eels a year (!) and shipped along the waterways to the island of Ely. One of the largest buildings north of the Alps at the time, its 246ft 12c nave remains one of the longest of English Cathedrals, exemplifying the English preference for length over the French liking for height. Its masonry is of the best Norman type of ashlar blocks, and the sheer mass of its walls and arcades speaks to the power of the Norman Empire.
In the early 13c bishop Hugh of Northwold embarked on a radical rethinking of the east end in the newly fashionable Early English pointed-arch Gothic style, with extensive use of beautiful grey Purbeck marble columns and foliage carvings. A new shrine was built for the founder, Saint Etheldreda. About a hundred years later the dazzling Lady Chapel was added at the NE end, under the famous sacrist Alan of Walsingham. Above the seats are ‘nodding ogee’ arches of wonderful elaboration, and in the spandrels above this are 93 carved relief scenes of the life of the Virgin Mary, the height of Mariolatry in England. Altogether this is the great masterpiece of English decorated Gothic.
Ely offers in one building a history of English medieval architecture, from Norman to Early English to Decorated Gothic styles. But its wonders do not stop there. In 1322 the Norman Crossing Tower collapsed, probably due to digging foundations for the Lady Chapel. Medieval builders were wondrous, but not infallible. What replaced the Norman Crossing is one of the treasures of medieval architecture, a timber lantern designed and built by William Hurley to create a gravity-defying marvel of 14c illusionistic architectural engineering. Openings high up in the lantern were created which could be accessed by choristers: what an experience it would have been to hear them!
Ely Cathedral is one of the wonders of the world of English architecture, just an hour and 10 minutes from Kings Cross. Do join us as we explore its marvels!
Nicholas will meet the 9.42 direct train from Kings Cross getting in to Ely at 10.53, and take you on the 15-minute walk to the Cathedral, pointing out features of interest en route. If you prefer to take a taxi let us know and we can order one for you. After (optional) coffee in the Cathedral’s Almonry Café, we spend the rest of the morning looking at the exterior of the building before taking (optional) lunch in the Almonry Café. Then we explore the interior, followed by a respite over tea, before a brief visit to the world-famous Stained Glass Museum in the afternoon. Afterwards we walk or taxi back to the station to catch the 5.18 direct train getting into Kings Cross at 6.32 pm.
Cost: £120 including entry to Cathedral and Stained Glass Museum. This does not include lunch or refreshments.
Booking Information:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
This study day on Ely Cathedral has been developed by Louise Friend and will be presented by Nicholas Friend. Cheques are not a viable option at this time. Instead, please make your payment to Friend&Friend Ltd by bank transfer to our account with Metrobank, bank sort code 23-05-80, account number 13291721 or via PayPal to nicholas@inscapetours.co.uk, or credit/debit card by phone to Henrietta on 07940 719 397. She is available Tuesdays 2-5 pm or Thursdays 2-5 pm.
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